Fuselage Final Install: Elevator Control System

The elevator control system is complete. The setup runs from the control sticks all the way to the tail of the plane where the elevator attaches. Reminds me of driveline for a vehicle transmission. Next couple pics show the entire length, first one shows view looking forward from battery compartment.


Here is view looking aft from battery compartment.

This is a universal type joint right behind the torque tube. The purpose of this connection is to allow the torque tube to rotate independently of the push-pull tubes. The joint also enables the series of push pull tubes to function with a change in vertical alignment.

Here is another transition connection where the push pull tubes are attached and can move back and forth at a vertical alignment change.

Here is the end of the system where the elevator will ultimately attach.

With some 3-in-1 oil applied to all of the bushings and adjustments of nuts here and there, I've got most of the friction out and control sticks feel pretty good left, right (torque tube-ailerons), front, and back (push-pull tube transmission-elevator).

Fuselage Final Install: Control Stick Assembly

I final-installed the torque tube, elevator push-pull tube and control sticks. The torque tube is mounted on three pillow blocks, which are bolted to the frame. It takes a little effort to get the friction out and I had to shim the front and middle pillow blocks to get things to work. They're basically like glorified clamps which have to be loosened and lubricated to function without friction. Two aluminum stop rings are riveted to prevent torque tube from moving forward and aft. Here is the front pillow block:

Here is the middle pillow block. The bearing area was masked so paint would not contaminate.

Here is the aft pillow block. There are two black plastic bushings installed inside the torque tube that the push-pull tube goes through. The forward bushing was a son-of-a-gun to install, as the ID of the tube was out of round due to welding distortion. Took alot of sanding to get bushing to fit and was reminiscent of gear leg fitup--a fair amount of cursing aimed at the manufacturer.

Here is one of the two control sticks bolted through a series of bushings.

The front control stick will be wired with three switches, including: push-to-talk, radio frequency toggle, and elevator trim up and down. Here is me wiring up the switches. First time I have attempted any degree of soldering and was a little nerous. After a few practice runs, I got the hang of it. Key is to heat up wire and tabs with the gun and apply solder there and not directly to the gun. Looking for a glassy and not frosty looking bead.

Attached to the rear stick are two linkages which transfer elevator push pull tube actuation to the front and rear sticks.

In this pic, you can see the seven wires existing the base of the control stick.

The overall goal was to obtain a friction-free setup. I retained enough friction, however, that the control sticks won't flop over in any direction without pilot input.

Painting: Misc. Steel Parts

I painted up all of the primarily mild steel parts, which included: the control stick assembly, door/seat hardware, rudder pedals, jury struts, aileron spades, etc. Wanted to get this all done at once, so did not need to do piece-meal later. I used an automotive gray epoxy primer and matched a urethane topcoat to my gray exterior stripe. I ended up taking the door into an automotive part store where they scanned the gray stripe (with what looks like a bar code reader) and then a computer spit out the ingredients to match. He put the quart can on a scale, added the ingredients and then on a mechanical shaker. Perfect match; pretty cool and whole lot cheaper then aviation paint.

Here are bare metal pics, removed rust with Brillo pad and cleaned with lacquer thinner.

Here are pics of epoxy primed parts,

Here are pics of topcoated parts,

Painting: Doors

The covering and painting of all covered items is now complete with completion of the doors. I carried the red/white two tone color and gray stripe forward onto the doors. Had a few bleed through runs, but overall not too bad. Will dress these up when project done. The paint booth functioned well in keeping overspray out of the shop.

First couple pics show masking for gray stripe and then application of gray stripe.

Here are completed doors, hinged with "golf tees" for the time being.

New Paint Booth

I actually did what I should have done from the beginning: build a framed paint booth. Since the wings and fuse are done, decided to build a small 8x10 booth to paintup odds and ends through the rest of the project. Has high flow inlet air filter and high cfm exhaust fan. Should keep the overspray out and off of the rest of my shop.

Painting: Fuselage

The painting is finally starting to reach it's end. The fuselage is complete. First pics show primer coats being applied, sanded and washed.

The baggage compartment and BRS mount and bridles were masked for protection. No paint required beyond the sheeting shown, as there is a plastic trim piece that will conceal a good percentage of the opening perimeter.

Following pic shows the completely primed and sanded fuse ready for topcoat. First pic shows fine line tape applied, the top of which, marks the division between white and red topcoats. First topcoat to go on is red.

Next pic shows masking paper applied to fine line tape.

I then sheeted the remaining fuse with plastic. Now ready to spray.

Here is application of Matador Red topcoat.

Next, I masked and sheeted all of the newly painted red areas and then sprayed the entire fuse (including cockpit) insignia white (not shown until end).

Now, after the fuselage has been painted either red or white, I then masked off the area for the gray stripe. The gray stripe is painted over the white topcoat 1/2" below the red. This will leave a desired white stripe between the main gray stripe and overlying red. I used 1/2" fine line tape to effect this.

Here is how she looks after pulling it off the stand and getting it back on the gear. Overall, I'm pleased with the results. Had a few areas where "bleed-through" occurred under the fine line tape, such as where the tape was placed over the pinked serrated edge of the dacron covering tape or where the tape was mitered together at turns in the stripe. Also, had a few areas where runs occurred, which were sanded down, but are still evident under proper angle and lighting. I've resolved not to let myself get bogged down with perfection and adhere to the "10 foot rule". Note: the hole on the tail is where I cut my first opening in an inspection ring. A painted metal cover will conceal this. I had to open here in order to get wrench on the bolt that holds the tail spring. Must say it was decidedly tough to put a razor blade through the finished painted skin.

Now on to the doors which will be tricky as have to carry the split red/white and gray stripe forward in perfect alignment to that shown above.

Avionics Panel Redesign

Well it turns out Dynon has begun shipping their new everything-in-one flight information/engine monitoring units, coined the "Skyview". Cost is slightly more than their Flightdek 180 unit, which is similar but no synthetic vision or plan view imaging of terrain. I think a great value. I spent an evening on the Vans web forum where the debates were flying on the product (between dynon rep. and other competitors); hands-down I'm convinced. I'm still awestruck by this technology even though I understand now how it works. It comes with a 3d terrain map database loaded and, using a gps input signal, can place your position continuously relative to the terrain model. I will use my Garmin 496 for gps input signal. Bummer that I already installed remote compass and OAT for the other unit considered, which is not compatible.

Here is my latest simulated panel plan: