Lubrication System: Install Oil Lines

Since I purchased the kit in 2006, the Rotax engine has undergone some modifications which resulted in my needing to acquire updated oil lines. The ones used are pre-made by Rans with fire sleeve and all needed fittings. Here are lines connected to the oil cooler.

This pic shows the oil return line to the bottle, which has a banjo bolt connection.

This pic shows the line running from the bottom of the engine to the oil bottle. A very tight fit was encountered. Soapy water helped lubricate the line.

Here are two connections made at the oil bottle.  The black line is an overflow line. The angled fitting at the top of the bottle runs to the bottom of the engine.

Next pic shows the line running from the oil bottle to the oil cooler. If I recall, the straight bottle fitting at this location has a drop tube that expels oil to the cooler.

Next pic shows the line running from the oil cooler to the oil pump on the front of the engine.

Here is a closeup of the 90 degree fitting fastened to the oil pump.

Originally, just a threaded plug was located on the bottom of the oil bottle for oil changes.  I decided to install a quick drain valve at this location for ease of oil changes.  I zip tied the cabin heat hose away from the valve.  Not shown safety wiring to the engine mount.

Carb Heat Install

Beginning with the control cable installation, cable is threaded through two cable housings (conduit). The ends of the cable housings are wired to cable ferrules which bolt to the firewall (shown) and carb heat valves.

The two throttle cables daylight through the firewall and attach to a mixer plate. A control cable and knob ties to the other end of the mixer plate. The cylindrical aluminum piece with side screw is a control cable friction adjustment.

Here is the carb heat diverter valve unit. The spring keeps the valve in the "normal" position, drawing ambient air in through the air filter intake. To actuate the carb heat, you pull the knob and the valve switches to allowing warmed air from the muffler.

Next pic shows one of the heat exchangers bolted to each end of the muffler. The OD of the exchanger is larger than the OD of the muffler which allows air to be drawn in and warmed as it moves up the hose to the carb heat diverter valve.

Following pics show construction of the diverter valves.

Last pic shows entire view of the air intake system mounted to the carb.

Cabin Heat Install

The air intake for the cabin heat is shown at the front of the engine. The heater hose runs from there over the engine and down to the muffler wrap flange (heat exchanger) fitting.

Here is a view of the cabin heat air diverter valve, heater hose attached to the fire wall, and control cable fastened with two hose clamps to the forward lower horizontal engine mount member. Trying to thread a bolt throught two spring clamps in a confined space by myself took me hours to fasten.
Here is a closeup of the air diverter valve and control cable installed to the muffler wrap. The down position expells the heated air down and pulling the knob out on the instrument panel directs heat up and into the cabin.

This pic shows the cable routing from the firewall.

Here is the control cable push-pull knob assembly, attached to the instrument panel.

Cooling System Install

The cooling system was final installed today. Here is the radiator.

The radiator is attached to the firewall at two locations and from the front with a rod which is clamped to the engine mount.

The radiator hose runs from the expansion tank, down into the left side of the radiator. You can also see 5" of hose slit and zipped tied to the main hose for anti-chafe protection from the engine mount. An 8" spring was inserted into the ID of the hose to prevent the hose from pinching at a severe bend.

Here is the hose coming in to the left side of the radiator.

The second hose runs from the water pump down into the right side of the radiator. Again, a spring was inserted and extra hose was used for anti-chafe.

Here is a view looking up from the belly.

Not shown is a 24" piece of 1/2" poly tubing running from the expansion bottle to the overflow bottle mounted on the firewall.

Lubrication System: Oil Cooler Install

The oil cooler is mounted to the front of the engine. Here is a front view of the mounted cooler.

From behind, you can see it mounted to the engine in two of the three locations. The cooler is mounted between two aluminum channels/layers of silicone and sandwiched by four threaded rods. The silicone will dampen vibration.

You can see a gap between the cooler and vertical side of the channel. There could be concern that this will shift and rub metal on metal. Liquid silicone was suggested, but I don't want to risk plugging the cooling area. I will monitor through course of operation, as it eems like it is in there tight.

My kit is missing some oil lines (manual says to be provided by Rotax) so will contact factory to obtain entire updated lines sheathed with fire resistant material.

Install Exhaust System

The exhaust system is installed and complete. Below pic shows all of the components. One half of the heater wrap, shown below, has flange fittings riveted and siliconed to two hole openings.


Here is a closeup of the flange fittings. Heater hoses will later attach here. The aluminum wrap around the muffler functions as a heat exchanger and warms the supplied air and returns it to the cabin.

Here is the heater wrap being installed around the muffler. Spacers are used to optimize fit.

The exhaust pipes were loosely attached to the engine and the muffler was attached to the pipes through a series of springs. My dad assisted while I stretched the springs with a device (handle with small hook) I had saved from stretching springs on my kids' trampoline. Worked slick. Once everything aligned and in position, I torqued down the nuts on the studs connected to the engine.

Instrument Panel: Final Fit-Up

The instrument panel is complete, save for the four push-pull knob and cables (carb heat, choke, cabin heat, parking brake). Here is the panel I cut from blank stock and had powder-coated locally for $15.
I installed all of the instruments into the panel.


Here is the back-side of the panel and the variety of depths encountered with each instrument.

The structural tubes were a big hindrance in the panel design. Turns out my Hobbs gauge and several of my switch-breakers contacted the tubes and required some improvising.

Here is the completed panel ready to be screwed to the boot cowl, once it is painted and ready for installation.

I'm really pleased with how it turned out, in spite of, the limited panel space and underlying barriers. Combination switch/breakers were a huge space-saving factor. Next thing will be to install labels for each switch/breaker and fuse.