Rans S-7S Courier Home-Build Project by Rob Aho

First Flight

2011-12-25T09:09:00.036-05:00

This past Christmas Eve day in the UP was uncharacteristally balmy and free of snow and wind (well, marginally free of on the latter). After much prolonged trepidation, it was finally time for that first flight. Recently, I received flight instruction from a CFI in the same plane make/model down near Green Bay and got my Private Pilot license current. After eight years of not flying, it truly was not "just like riding a bike". However, I got to the point of completing landings successfully (although not pretty) and my CFI signed me off. His words following each completed landing were typically something like "we survived another one". Nothing like the Taildragger to humble a person.

Here are pics taxing to the runway.

Here is a time sequence of ground roll through flight.

Tail comes up almost immediately.

Lift off, in like 150 ft?!

Way over the 50 ft. obstacle by 1000 ft. Note the marker in the foreground.

Initially, I had considered a combination of fast-taxiing and crow-hopping the plane down the runway to verify flight control and engine integrity; however, the majority of people I trust recommend getting the plane above 3,000 AGL directly over the airport ASAP and THEN try different maneuvers all within glide slope of the runway. This makes good sense. My FAA guidance doc for flight testing stated that over 70% of mishaps occur during the first flight.

Only squawk was that I need to adjust the engine idling down a touch. Otherwise, an absolutely perfect non-eventful flight!

Finally, here is the as-built instrument panel.

During cold winter ops, I found that covering the front half of the oil cooler with cardboard resulted in the oil temp warming up in a reasonable fashion to min. specified (120 deg), yet would not result in over-heating of the oil; temp remained ideal around 180 deg. in flight. Cylinder head temps were running around 170 and should be closer to 200 degrees. As a result, I likewise plan on covering up half of the radiator. I will also monitor exhaust gas temps. I'm told if sensors are within 25 degrees, than one can assume the carb's are adequately synched. The engine sure SOUNDS smooth. One interesting observation was my power off, full flap stall speed was 45 mph. I was expecting less, since I installed vortex generators. Power on stall speed (clean) was 42 mph. Followup note from previous post: I had completed an intial static run-up with my plane tethered to a post, and found that my rpms were a little high, so I repitched the prop to take more "bite", statically ran it up again and hit the 5100 rpm I was shooting for. Now there should be no risk of red lining the engine in-flight. In addition, after MANY hours I was able to find a "sweet spot" in the tail where the remote compass would read accurately, so had to remount it. Magnetic interference was present everywhere.

Data Plate and DAR Inspection

2011-11-11T12:36:00.004-05:00

The last punch-list item before final inspection was installation of a data plate. I had a local jeweler do the engraving for the required aircraft data. I riveted it to the skin with a metal backing plate behind.

Today the plane became officially airworthy. My Designated Airworthiness Representative (DAR) from Marquette made the trip over this morning. After going over things with a fine tooth comb, he was pleased with what he saw and issued me the certificate.

Now all that remains for me to do is get my biennial flight review with a CFI in another S7 and I'll be ready to launch. Actually, I still need to complete a full static run-up to a max of 5100 rpm to verify the engine doesn't red-line in-flight. If so, I'll need to repitch the prop setting. Also, I need to troubleshoot the Dynon remote compass; I'm getting magnetic interference from somewhere near where it is mounted.

Engine Start and Shakedown

2011-11-06T08:27:00.003-05:00

With the prop pitched and bolts torqued, engine purged and full of oil and coolant, it was finally time to crank the engine. I tied the tail down just in case and had my Dad at the ready with a fire extinguisher. I turned the key and she fired right up. Turned on the Dynon and all the engine parameters reported in nicely...oil pressure, oil temp, CHT, EGT... Other than having the mag switches backwards and a small oil weep near the oil pump intake line, everything looked fine. I pre-heated the engine oil overnight and with the soft start module installed, the prop turned effortlessly. I was impressed how much juice my 5 year old battery still had. I stomped on the brakes during a partial runup and they were firm and not mushy at all.

The DAR requires one hour indicated on the Hobbs. I've got 0.4 indicated now. Taxi trials next. DAR scheduled next weekend.

Addendum: Taxi test went well; however, I noticed when I got on the brakes, the wheels would shudder. I confirmed that the brake pads need to be "seasoned" to develop a nice even glaze on the pads through a series of hard braking events. This will result in an even distribution of braking force from the pads to the rotors.

Weight and Balance

2011-11-06T08:13:00.003-05:00

I borrowed some automotive scales from a hangar neighbor who works for Michigan Tech's Keweenaw Research Center. Here is the plane placed horizontally on scales. A jack stand keeps the tail elevated on the aft scale.

I used a hoist to lift each wheel on the scale. I lifted from the gear leg truss.

Each scale has a sensor which transmits the info to a computer monitor.

Here is a closeup of the scale.

I used the hoist as a secondary support in case the jackstand fell. Lot's of anxiety getting it to this point.

I needed to get the mains level as well, so I put the front scales on the level concrete sill.

Here is the output weights. Total empty weight 790 lbs with the tail coming in at 67 lbs minus the jackstand. Most S7s come in around 750 lbs, but with my BRS in the baggage compartment, I came in heavier overall and in the tail.

I shimmed the jack stand up with 2x4s.

Another shot of the wheel being lifted from the hoist. This will be used to change tires in the future.

N-Number

2011-11-06T08:01:00.001-05:00

I could have either gone with 3" or 12" letter heights, depending on whether I'd be leaving the country or not. Since I'm close to Canada and thought I'd be going up there someday, I opted for the 12" size. The vinyl letters were obtained from a local sign company. A snap to install, since precut and spaced on backing paper already.

It is Done: As-Built Constructed Airplane

2011-10-23T08:43:00.003-04:00

After 5 years and 1 month, it is done. Looking back my first post was September 25, 2006, when I began organizing the parts. The twins were two and baby Reagan was yet to be.

I pitched the Kiev prop and torqued all of the bolts and reassembled the cowling. The plane is now ready for determining the empty weight center of gravity.

Here is a canopy cover I obtained from Rans to protect the lexan from UV damage and hopefully provide a little theft deterrence.

Here is the new inflatable tailwheel I obtained from Rans to replace the provided one.

Final Install: Misc. Interior Trim Pieces and Hardware

2011-10-16T17:21:00.005-04:00

Following of the rigging of all the cables and such in the cockpit, I was able to get some trim pieces fit and installed. Here is the Station 3 Closeout in front of the baggage area.

Cup holder for non-adult beverages, of course.

This pic shows the push-pull tube cover installed.

And a closeup...

I installed a map pocket on each side of the front seat cockpit, plus installed the smallest commercially available halon fire extinguisher on the floor board.

The right map holder contains my recently received FAA registration; 5-Romeo-Alpha is now official!

Due to my kit having the older "bubble" lexan windows, I needed to have custom-built, longer door upcatches made (at no charge by Rans). Here is the left side.

Side note: Just reconned the Houghton County Airport grass in-field area with my truck. Turns out there is a 2,100 ft. long grassed area between the main concrete runway and taxiway, within a 100 yards of my hangar. Lit up the truck to 50 mph down the CL and found it totally smooth: I've found my runway. Will allow me to simulate takeoff/landings from conditions similar to my developing airstrip and will be a whole lot more forgiving on my soon-to-be-installed bush tires and 8-year-old-rusty crosswind technique.

Final Rigging: Flaps, Ailerons, Horiz. Stab., Elevator and Rudder

2011-10-16T09:23:00.000-04:00

Over a period of time, I adjusted all of the above to specified deflection angles and tensions, as appropriate. The airframe is completely rigged now. Used my Iphone (and corresponding application) for all of the vertical deflections; measured the horizontal rudder deflection more conventionally. Had a local A&P come over and set the 25 lb tension in the aileron cables with his tensiometer. I torque sealed all of the jam nuts.

Final Install: BRS

2011-10-02T08:31:00.011-04:00

I mounted the front and rear rocket activation handles and routed the cables back to the chute tray mount. Similar to a gun, these cables, when pulled, actuate a firing pin at the rocket, which detonates a primer, which then ignites the sold fuel rocket. Since both cables are connected to the firing pin, they provide some redundancy, should one fail.

I then assembled and mounted the rocket assembly to the tray and connected the rocket lanyards to the chute. The lanyards (not shown) will pull the chute out of the plane on deployment.

The rocket is housed in this launch tube with cables and firing pin at the bottom.

The rocket would exit the top of the tube and pierce the fabric on deployment.

The four airframe bridles are all attachedt to a common carabiner. From there a single bridle runs to a carabiner which is connected to the parachute.

Some additional pics showing bridle routing:

Flap Fillet and Wing Gap Seal

2011-10-02T08:04:00.000-04:00

With great relief, installation of these two trim pieces complete the entire painting phase of the project.

Final Install: Jury Struts, Flap Teleflex, Aileron Cables

2011-09-18T19:44:00.001-04:00

I got the jury struts installed which provide midpoint support to the long main struts. Of key importance if plane ever flys inverted and main struts go from tension to compression.

The aft end of the rear jury strut attaches to a horn that retains the fuel vent tube and flap teleflex cable.

Here is the completed assembly with painted exit fairing and teleflex cable connected to the flap horn.

Here the flap teleflex cables attached to the flap handle. The lines are routed so that the floor trim piece will fit.

I also hooked up the aileron cables.

Here is the completed aileron push-pull rod exiting the aileron exit fairing and attachment to the aileron horn/spade. The push-pull rod originates from the aileron bell crank which is where the aileron cables terminate.

Rigging: Wing Washout/Fuel Gauge Calibration

2011-09-11T20:11:00.000-04:00

Today I set the wing washout or twist in the wing. The inboard side of the wing is set to have a higher angle of attack then the outboard side. As a result, the inboard side will buffet and stall before the outboard side where the aileron control surfaces are located. I had to get the wings level, so I used an adjustable stand along with a level to accomplish this. The level was taped to the bottom of a 2x4 and 1/4" shims were taped to locations corresponding to the spars. Once the wing was level I then moved outboard beyond the spar attach points and added another spacer on the TE side and adjusted the rear spar fitting until level was indicated. This was a simple method Rans came up with to get the washout to spec.

Since the plane was level, I then added 1.25 total gallons of fuel to the tanks. This quantity corresponds to the "unuseable" portion of fuel in the tanks that will not drain out. Once added, this level was noted on the wing root sight gauges and the "zero" line on the fuel level decal was place accordingly. I obtained a fish scale to get the precise quantity of fuel in each tank, in this case 3 lb 12 oz per wing tank.

Airworthiness Inspection/N-Number Registration

2011-09-04T09:23:00.001-04:00

I made contact with my FAA-Designated Airworthiness Representative (DAR) and scheduled my inspection for this Fall. He sent me the list of forms I need to complete.

The first thing I need to do to get the project certified is get an N-number, so I got on-line at FAA and finally reserved one. My plane will no longer be referred to as the "project" but she will be referred to as "N665RA"

Final Install: Rudder Cable Guard, LRI, Pitot, Gear Leg Fairings, Fuel Scupper/Lines

2011-09-04T08:17:00.004-04:00

I completed acid-etch priming and painting of a lot of smaller aluminum pieces, which allowed me to get down to installing some the final punch-list items. Here is fabrication of the rudder cable guard.

I painted and installed the fuel scuppers and hooked up the remaining fuel lines connecting the wings to fuselage. The fuel system is now 100% complete. I need to add some fuel to the system to expand the tanks and leak-test the lines.

I connected the lines in the wing to the pitot tube and mounted on the wing.

Likewise, on the other wing, I hooked up the Lift Reserve Indicator and mounted to the wing. The pneumatic lines, probes and instruments are now 100% complete. Per the guidance, I set the inital probe angle to 50 degrees and penciled a reference line on the probe.

Finally, following paint, I final installed the gear leg fairings. Note near the bottome the section of fuel line I placed over the poly tubing for protection from the fairing edge. In this pic you can see the outside air temperature probe mounted on the plastic rib and brake line going through.

A rubber molding edge was glued on top.

Aho Airfield from 1000'

2011-08-28T09:36:00.001-04:00

A friend of mine was gracious enough to invite me up in his plane and scope out my airstrip. Here are pics from the reconn mission. Talk about a short-field landing!

Door Fit-Up and Final Install

2011-08-28T09:04:00.000-04:00

In hindsight, I wish I had waited to paint the doors until I had the perimeter trim strips installed. As a result, I had to paint and match the trim stripes to the door. No small effort. Here are the trim strips being trimmed, drilled and clecoed to the door frame.

The lexan windows needed to be trimmed and holes drilled to match the trim strips.

Here is the door latch assembly installed. The latch mechanism is actuated by the handle in the center and the rod ends secure the door to the fuse at 3 points.

The painted trim strips were reclecoed in preparation for riveting.

Here are the completed doors. Note the door upcatch on the wing. The door handle hangs from this to keep the door open, even in flight, if desired. The round objects in the windows are air vents that open and capture air from the slip stream.

Wing Tip / LED Light Final Install

2011-08-21T15:08:00.000-04:00

Let there be light. I mounted the combination strobe/nav LED lights to the wing tips, wired them up to the system and then screwed the whole assembly to the wing.

Windshield/Skylight Final Install

2011-08-08T19:41:00.001-04:00

This was surely one of the longer project endeavours. Lots of match drilling of holes and trimming to get this done. Here are completion pics of the lexan, trim strips, hold-down strips, z-strips and wing cuffs.

I'm not all that thrilled about the wing cuff design. It was nearly impossible to get a snug fit around the entire piece and not the most elegant item. I've heard this echoed from fellow builders as well.

On to the doors and hopefully the last of the fabricated and painted pieces. I can only wish....

Windshield/Skylight Fit-up

2011-07-31T13:31:00.002-04:00

In order to fasten the skylight, I needed to first install 3 support ribs onto the fuselage between the wings. Here are the ribs being attached. The ribs were snugged up to horizontal objects placed spanning the gap between wing roots, so that the skylight contour would match the wing contour.

Next the one-piece lexan windscreen/skylight was laid up and clecoed to the fuselage spar carry through tube.

Now began the trimming of the lexan so that it would match the boot cowl joggle and attaching the trim strips to hold the lexan down.

The lexan is held to the fuselage side tubes by metal z-strips, which prevents having to drill into the fuselage tubes.

Lots of drilled holes and clecos are needed for this exercise. Here is the lexan being drilled to match previously drilled holes in the ribs and then clecoed.

Final task was to fit-up the plastic wing cuffs which trim off the front wind screen corners.

Not shown were 4 trim/hold-down strips which were also match-drilled to the rib holes. Now that everything is fit-up, moving on to the paint booth....

Wings Final Install

2011-07-16T15:21:00.006-04:00

I got the idea for using a sheet rock jack to aid in attaching the wings, so I borrowed one from a contractor friend and duct taped my old wing spars to carry the load.

Worked slick, all I needed was my Dad to help me get the wings on the platform and I could manipulate attachment myself.

In order to the get the wing attach points level, I had to use a saw horse under the fuse and tether the tailwheel to the wall for fear of nosing over.

The spar is attached to the fuse as two locations. Here is the connection at the leading edge spar. There is a carry through spar from the fuselage that has a welded Tee on it in which the bolt passes through. I had to cut off and file the front portion to fit inside the spar. Once the front holes were aligned, I transfer drilled right through the back side of the spar.

Here is the connection at the trailing edge spar. Both connections allow the wing to pivot up and down to apply dihedral to the wing.

Here is the front strut going on and is sufficient to hold the wing upright.

I then moved over to the left wing and here I am filing the "Tee-bone" fitting.

Now I've finally got something resembling a complete airplane. WOOHOO!! Major Milestone.

Wing washout (or reduction in angle of incidence/attack) of the outboard end of the wing will be completed during rigging. An adjustment is made to a threaded fitting inside the lower end of the aft strut.

Rudder Final Install

2011-07-16T15:21:00.001-04:00

The tailfeathers are now complete with the installation of the rudder.

Here are the tailwheel horns attached to the rudder horns by chains and springs for tailwheel steering.

Rudder cable to pedal connection.

Spring attached from rudder pedal to frame.

Guides installed to frame to align rudder cable.

Elevator Final Install

2011-07-16T15:21:00.000-04:00

The elevators turned out to be quite a project to install. The right one has an electric trim tab operated by a servo motor and rod. I strung the line and wired a DB connector with pins for this connection. The trim is operated from the control stick and the position is determined on an LED indicator on the control panel.

The trim tab bolts are safety wired to the tab.

Here are the male pin connectors.

Next the female pin connectors.

The elevators were horizontally static balanced similar to the ailerons. I used lead shot cast in Altoid cans again to make ingots. The weights were filed until the elevator lifted off the aft end onto the hinge line on the leading edge. Here is the right elevator which required more weight to offset the mass of the trim assembly.

Here is the balance left elevator.

The elevators were then attached to the horiz stabs. The elevator hinges were then oiled to remove friction.

The elevator horns were attached to the control stick push-pull assembly. I'm encountering friction in the fore-aft stick direction and will need to trouble shoot. Will try applying lithium grease to the push-pull tube next to see if that alleviates stick forces. Final installed painted plastic fairings.

The trim tab is fabricated from two pieces and joined at this middle connection.

Horizontal Stabilizer Final Install

2011-07-16T15:20:00.001-04:00

Rather then move directly to the wings, I decided to begin at the tail and install the control surfaces. First off, was installing the horizontal stabilizers. The tangs for the wire brace connections needed to be deflected to specified angles. I got this tip from Rans for forming the tangs.

Remaining pics show H. stab installation.

"Feathering the Nest"

2011-07-16T15:20:00.000-04:00

After the moving the fuse and wings, I then spent the weekend moving all the remaining parts and a high percentage of my tools. This particular hangar was outfitted with a lot of shelving, which helped in organizing the remaining parts.

Relocate Project to Houghton Co. Airport

2011-07-16T15:19:00.000-04:00

The project finally out-grew my garage and it was time to move it to an actual hangar. There I can attach the tail feathers and wings. Here are some pics from the big day using a 26' long truck. Everything went as planned with no accidents and mis-calculations on needed truck dimensions.

Root Skins, Fuel Sight Gauge Final Install

2011-06-12T21:39:00.002-04:00

Here are acid etched primed root skins.

Following the white topcoat, fuel sight gauges were installed on the inboard side of the root skins (viewable from the cockpit). After the fuel fittings for the sight gauges were installed, the forward and middle root skins were riveted to the root rib.

Grommets were installed for fuel fitting, pitot and flap cable penetrations. The pitot tubes and flap cable run through a third aft root skin piece that is screwed to the root rib for easy removal to facilitate inspection/maintenance.

Here's a closeup of the fuel sight gauge.

Lift Strut, Exit Fairing Fit-up

2011-06-04T20:32:00.000-04:00

I trimmed and match drilled the plastic flap and aileron exit fairings to the bottom of the wings and also installed all of the fittings and hardware to the aluminum front and rear lift struts. The struts are now ready to support the wings when they are installed.

Wings: Root Rib Modification

2011-06-04T20:06:00.000-04:00

The aft flexible fuel line from the fuel tank on each wing needs to run under a wing structural member and then over the bottom root rib (and then into the cockpit). Currently, there is not enough clearance to accomplish this without pinching the fuel line. Ran's suggestion to work around this situation is that the root rib be pinched to obtain sufficient clearance. Not the most elegant solution, but better then routing line over structural member which would introduce a high-point in the fuel line and not allow complete draining of fuel tank.

Using a pair of channel locks and aluminum angle (the latter to distribute pressure on outer side of rib), I pinched the rib until 3/8" fuel line would fit unencumbered.

Right Wing: Ailerons, Flaps, Wing Tip, Gap Seals, Root Skins and VGs

2011-05-09T09:48:00.001-04:00

Similar to the left wing, I've got all of the above tasks fitup or installed.

Left Wing: Install Vortex Generators

2011-04-23T08:29:00.000-04:00

I completed my last assembly task on the left wing before I move it back on the stand and duplicate efforts on the right wing. Vortex generators were installed to reduce the stall speed of the airplane which will reduce landing approach speed and likewise reduce landing distance. I've been told the S7 is better capable to produce 3-point landings with VGs, as well. The VGs were positioned such that they have the best ‘bite’ at the airflow when the wing is at the stall angle of attack; not too far forward or aft. The manufacturer recommended that the leading edge of the VG be aligned at the 7% wing chord position. This results in the VG functionally positioned at the 9% position. The average wing chord for the S7 is 60 inches, so I used 4.2 inches as my setback position from the LE spar.

Here is a Stolspeed VG

Here are the VGs placed on the precut advesive pads.

It was helpful having the wings off when doing this because then the wing root was exposed. It was a simple matter of running a string line from LE to TE spar to determine the chord line and then using a triangle square transferring the 4.2" measurement to the top of the wing. This location mark on the wing was then carried down to the outboard end of the LE spar and a string line run through the two marks. This line was then projected across the tip wrap area and terminated shy of the wing tip fairing.

Here is the template used to get the correct angle on successive VGs. The 60 mm template was used for the first 3' on the outboard wing and then spacing was increased to 90 mm up to the wing root. The manufacturer recommended this placement so that the outboard wing would not stall first and, presumably, not result in loss of aileron control.

Left Wing Root Skins Fit-Up

2011-04-03T08:44:00.001-04:00

The root skin consists of three pieces. The skin is riveted on with exception to the aft piece which is screwed on for internal wing access. Here are three pieces clecoed together.

I taped the assembly in-place where optimum, i.e. where holes centered on fuel fittings and skin centered on root rib.

I then transfer drilled into the root rib and clecoed as I went. I also fit-up the fuel sight gauge mounting bracket.

Here is a closeup.

I'll final assemble after painting.

Left Wing Gap Seals

2011-04-02T10:51:00.002-04:00

The gap seals were cut to length to fit between hinges and then mitred at 45 degrees using a disk sander.

Next, holes were drilled every 8-9" while maintaining specified edge distances. A dremel drum sander was used to notch areas where underlying bolt heads on TE spar were located which would have precluded seating of seal.

Using a 4' level, I struck a line corresponding to the top of hinge elevation. The top of gap seal matched this line.

Two-way tape was used to adhere the gaps seals while transfer drilling was done into the TE spar. Clecos were used to hold piece during drilling.

Following deburring of holes, I then riveted gap seals to trailing edge spars. Next, using a block plane, I then trimmed trailing edge of gap seal to create a 0.06" air space between gap seal and flap/aileron.

Here a completion pics.

Hard to see, but bolt heads underlie the covering on the TE spar. These areas were notched on the gap seal.

The mitred ends were constructed to facilitate potential bolt removal. The rivet holes were located 1/4" from bottom of gap seal rather than along centerline so that the pop rivet gun head would fit unobstructed.

Gear Leg Reinforcement

2011-04-02T09:49:00.002-04:00

I've been told that the existing gear leg shaft in fuselage socket connection is the achilles heel of my vintage plane design. A hole is drilled and a single bolt extends through the socket and shaft. Over time, repetitive landings on rough ground and especially with bigger tires tends to over-torque the gear shaft causing the softer socket metal hole to wallow out. The factory has since corrected by welding steel reinforcement "patches" where the bolt goes through. I decided to address this potential problem now and avoid headaches later, especially since I plan rough field landings with bush tires in the future. Several guys had purchased steel shaft couplings for added reinforcement. I wanted to avoid the extra weight and purchased aluminum two-piece collars with cap screws. I could not find an assembly long enough, so I purchased two collars and had them welded together. Here are the collars as-purchased.

Here is an installed 1-3/8" welded double collar installed over the gear leg socket. The gear leg shaft is inside the socket. A longer bolt now runs through the entire shaft, socket and collar. I applied JB weld epoxy to the inside bearing surface of the collar before tightening down the 4 cap screws. I also stripped all of the paint from the socket bearing surface, before installing the clamps.

Left Wing Construction: Attach Flaps/Ailerons, Wing Tip Fit-up

2011-03-21T16:22:00.001-04:00

I got the control surfaces attached to the left wing.

Here is a closeup of one of the hinge points.

Next, I needed to fit-up the wing tip assembly. The wing tip inside edge overlaps the rivet centerline by 5/16" so need to have a way to transfer hole locations onto wing tip. I drew 2" line segments from hole locations to transfer to wing tip when put on wing.

Here is the final trimmed wing tip with minimum edge distance maintained from aileron.

Here is a rib section riveted to the aft end of the wing tip. The aft end of wing tip is set flush with aileron aft edge in aileron neutral position.

The aileron neutral position is established by placing the wing spars on a linear piece of wood with shims of similar thickness. A shim is also place under the aileron aft edge. This results in the bottom of wing spars and bottom of aileron aft edge all in same plane or neutral position.

Here you can see trailing edges of tip and aileron matchup in neutral position.

I located holes for the nav/strobe lights. I will utilize a single bolt, nylock nut and larger washer to fasten to wing tip later.

Cowling Fit-up and Final Install

2011-03-08T13:33:00.000-05:00

The fiberglass cowling consists of upper and lower pieces that need to be trimmed to fit. Both pieces need to be centered and set 1/2" behind the spinner dome backing plate. I used scrap wood as spacers seen here.

First off, I needed to trim the aft edges of the upper and lower cowls to fit and match the boot cowl joggle.

I used a Dremel cutoff wheel for a lot of the trimming and drum sander for edge contouring.

Here the lower cowl is trimmed to match the boot cowl and spinner dome plate. For the latter, I wanted a smooth drag-free contour transition.

Here is the oil check/fill access door installed. It is recessed into the cowl.

Once the cowl pieces are trimmed, everything is taped together and holes are drilled and clecoed where the 1/4 turn fasteners and receptacles will be located. Note the smooth transition from spinner dome backing plate to upper cowl.

Both cowl pieces were PPG epoxy primed in the paint the booth.

Here are completed pics of the cowl assembly with Superflite urethane top coat paint and quarter turn fasteners installed.

One modification I did was obtain a tubing bender and bend/realign aluminum carb. overflow drain tubes so that they would daylight through the bottom cowl opening, as opposed to drilling holes for their exit. This way, lower cowl slips on and off with ease.

Aileron and Flaps Final Construction

2011-03-08T13:30:00.004-05:00

Hardware was installed on the covered and painted flaps and ailerons. Shown here is a flap and aileron with attached horns.

Next up is assembly of the aileron spade assembly. This feature is used to reduce stick forces and create something similar to "power steering".

The aileron must be balanced in the static position, so a counterweight is fastened to the aileron spade. I'm told the weight also dampens out oscillations in the aileron. Two aileron hinge points are placed on the sharp edge of two pieces of horizontal angle iron. Weight is added or subtracted until the aileron is parallel with the angle.

I obtained lead shot from a local gunsmith and used it as raw stock for forming the counterweight. I wanted to over-cast material rather than the alternative.

This pic shows one of the balance points.

I melted down the shot and used Altoid cans as a form. This was much more cost-effective then obtaining lead sheet or plate, which Rans suggested.

Here is my smelting setup in my paint booth. Lead fumes were exhausted by fan and I wore a supplied-air mask. Lead fumes are extremely toxic.

Here are the two resulting lead ingots. I spooned off a lot of impurities resulting in these 100% beauties.

Here is the first balance trial, which was way too heavy.

Realized after the fact that I casted them way too thick so used a block plane to mill off material. After many iterations here is a perfectly balanced aileron. When I got close to balancing, I filed and sanded each ingot with successively finer grits. I then dimpled the bottom side with large drill bits to remove material and nail the balance point.

Final counterweight attached to spade.

Engine Oil Pre-Heater Install

2011-03-08T13:29:00.000-05:00

Since I've learned that it's not advisable to start the Rotax engine at temps below 50 deg. F without preheat, I installed a Reiff oil heating system. I'll plug in this unit the night before any cold morning flights. The first heating element was epoxied to the bottom of the engine block.

The second heating element is formed into a large clamp which attaches to near the bottom of the oil storage bottle, seen below.

The thermostat is epoxied to the bottom of the oil bottle. Barely viewable below.

The plug-in cord was routed up to the top of the engine for access through the oil access door. The cord was also grounded to the engine block.

Prop Spinner Fit-Up

2011-02-08T14:22:00.001-05:00

The propellor spinner dome and backing plate have been fabricated to permit the 3 Kiev propellor blades to fit. First off, the backing plate needed new holes transfer drilled to match the hole pattern on a 1" thick spacer which mounts to the engine propellor flange.

Here is the new bolt pattern, with one bolt present...

Here is a side-view. From left to right: engine propellor flange, backing plate, ring insert (not shown) and propellor hub. Note: bolts through flange are too long and hit the gear case; vendor has since supplied shorter ones.

Next, I temporarily mounted the propellor blades to construct a poster board cut-out template. This will allow me to transfer a cut-out onto the spinner dome.

Here is a tool supplied with the prop which allows me to set the pitch of each blade. I needed to get the blades pitched properly so the cut-outs in the spinner will be accurate.

So here is the first of three cut-outs to be made at each blade centerline.

I started with a Dremel cut-off wheel and then "snuck up" on the actual line with a Dremel sanding drum and then smoothed up the opening by hand with 400 grit sandpaper.

Multiple fits were required to match the the contour of the blade and leave a specified annular space around the blade.

Once the cut-outs were completed, I needed to drill holes for fasteners which attach the backing plate to the spinner dome. In order to end up with a spinner that spins "true" and not wobble, the propellor was assembled horizontally, pitched and laid on a flat surface. The spinner dome was then placed over it which resulted in the backing plate and dome resting on the same plane. At this point holes were drilled.

Next, nut plates were installed at all of the hole locations.

The rivets were countersunk, so flush with the plate.

Now ready for paint...

Boot Cowl and Instrument Panel Final Install

2011-01-16T08:39:00.001-05:00

After numerous fitup iterations (trim, retrim), the boot cowling was painted. Here is the cowling in the paint booth before priming.

Here is the primed and painted cowl with fine line tape demarcating where the stripe will be located.

Here is masking in preparation of the gray stripe.

Here is the boot cowl painted and riveted to the fuselage. Overall, pretty happy with the painting results. Had some run issues on the bottom when it was hanging vertical. Runs seem more prevalent on second pass. Seems like 25% reducing of topcoat is optimum. I applied high temp RTV silicone at the flange forward of the firewall to seal off engine fluid and fume leakage.

The instrument panel is fastened to the boot cowl through a dozen screws with rubber grommets to insulate instruments from vibration.

Avionics and Electrical Wiring Completion and Startup

2011-01-02T09:21:00.011-05:00

I can't believe I've finally got a fully functional avionics instrument panel. I put the juice to the system recently and, instead of sparks flying, all of the components operated beautifully without a hitch. The biggest surprise was that the combination VHF radio, stick mounted controls and microphone/headphone jacks worked flawlessly: voice-activated intercom, stick-mounted PTT, frequency flip-flop and streaming music from a jack I wired in to play Pandora through my Iphone. Still need to verify transmission quality. Lots of micro-soldering work from a complete novice. The Dynon Skyview required a little configuration identifying the engine sensors and took a little research to get the Garmin 496 to talk to the Skyview, but all works great. The synthetic vision PFD is awesome. It is with great relief that this phase of the project is done. There was no Rans guidance to follow, therefore, independent consultation with component vendors was required. Following are a collection of install pics over last few months, first off the as-built functioning panel.

Here is the firewall, which shows a blue capacitor I installed to filter engine electrical noise and hence reduce radio noise. Buss bars nearly full.

I really like the DB connectors, as the crimped pins result in a really solid connection on the wire and snap into the connectors firmly and stay put. I have used them exclusively in constructing wiring harnesses and in places where quick disconnects are required like near the wing roots where the strobe/nav lights connect.

Front headphone jack and wiring from stick harnessed into DB9 connectors; soldering jacks.

Music jack

ELT-function tested

Dynon remote compass installed in battery compartment for primary flight display on Skyview

Radio wiring diagram

Constructing radio wiring harness with shielded wire

Transponder wiring diagram

Constructing transponder wiring harness with pins, wire and crimper

Soft start module for ease of starting in cold weather and reduce of strain on Rotax

Electrical Wiring

2010-10-21T20:01:00.012-04:00

Been quite awhile since my last post. I heard a rumor that the electrical part of the project can take the longest, and I'm a believer. Seems like every operation requires a phone call, as this stuff is just so new. I started with the battery and worked downstream from there to the starter solenoid. The engine compartment is completely wired. I've got the Dynon Skyview engine monitoring module installed and all of the engine sensors wired to the wiring harness provided. I'm currently working on wiring the gps and transponder to the Dynon display. Here are some pics of the mess of wiring...

Rotax Carb Mechanical Synch

2010-09-19T13:59:00.000-04:00

I adjusted each carb so that each has the same power setting at high and low throttle. This is important because each carb independently operates 2 cylinders and, if not in synch, excessive vibration will occur. Procedure: Advance throttle levers to full, then back off so that you can insert a snug feeler gage into one, then adjust ferrule on the other throttle cable such that the same feeler gage is snug. Next pull throttle all the way back to idle. Ensure that at the idle stop, no gap exists between carbs. If so, adjust idle screw so that they are the same with no gap.

I've got them set and will go with these settings at start up. If excessive idle, I will back off each idle screw same amount, e.g. 1/4 turn. If vibration still occurs, there is a way to synch carbs pneumatically by hooking up pressure gage and making sure differential pressures in intake manifolds are the same.

Rotax Engine Mod: 2000 TBO

2010-09-06T21:27:00.000-04:00

Found service bulletin SB-912-057UL for the engine which increases the time between overhaul (TBO) from 1,500 hours to 2,000 hours. All it entailed was switching out an oil pump plug screw and pressure spring. A metal ball was reused. Following are some pics. New unit on right.

Control Cables Install: Throttle, Parking Brake

2010-09-04T22:10:00.000-04:00

Here is a pic of all of the push-pull knob control cables installed. Still have to finish up the choke cable.

Next pic shows the control cables behind the instrument panel.

Next pic shows the throttle control cables installed to the throttle lever. Set screws were loctited into the lever to hold the cables.

Here is the throttle cable installed to the throttle lever on the carb.

Finally, here is the control cable configured to the parking brake assembly...

Fuel System Install: Firewall Forward

2010-09-04T21:22:00.004-04:00

The fuel system is complete forward of the firewall. The pics below are sequenced in the order that the fuel flows. The first component installed was the gascolator, which acts as a fuel sediment trap and screen. The fuel flows into the bowl from the top elbow and then out through a screen near the top and out through an elbow on the other side. Note the spring-loaded valve on the bottom. The unit is mounted on the firewall.

The auxiliary electric fuel pump is mounted on cushioned clamps to the engine mount. I'm told it's a diaphragm type pump which offers little restriction to flow when not used. Note the black fuel lines housed within firesleeve. The firesleeve is capable of withstanding direct flame for up to 15 minutes. The fit was snug between fuel line and sleeve, so I clamped both hose/sleeve via single clamp to the hose-barb fittings.

Next component installed was an in-line fuel flow sensor from Dynon. This was installed where a fuel filter would normally go; however, I did not install the filter based on recommendation from Rans that there are issues with it being compromised by ethanol fuel additive. First pic looking down and then up.

Next a connection is made at the rotax supplied line...

...And the that line runs to the mechanical fuel pump. First an overview shot and pump housing closeup...

From here fuel is pumped to the bottom of the banjo junction fitting, mounted on the compensating tube. Following pic also shows return line on top running to the gascolator. A fuel pressure sensor from Dynon was installed where a plug was located in the fitting. Rans indicated their supplied sensor has been shown to be erratic.

Here is view from top, which also show the smaller two lines running left and right to each carb.

ADDENDUM: After talking to Rans and spending several days in deliberation, I decided to redo all of the fuel line connections and clamp the fuel lines directly to the hose barb fittings. I then safety wired the fire sleeve to the fuel lines. Here is a pic showing the revised fuel lines in the firewall area.

ADDENDUM 2:

After further investigation and, yes deliberation, I ended up sealing the ends of all of the fuel line firesleeve with RTK high temperature silicone. Ed at Rans had a great tip to use Formula 409 on your fingers. This allowed you to form the silicone without it sticking to your fingers. I've got these lines as fireproof as I'll ever get them now.

Lubrication System: Install Oil Lines

2010-08-23T10:25:00.001-04:00

Since I purchased the kit in 2006, the Rotax engine has undergone some modifications which resulted in my needing to acquire updated oil lines. The ones used are pre-made by Rans with fire sleeve and all needed fittings. Here are lines connected to the oil cooler.

This pic shows the oil return line to the bottle, which has a banjo bolt connection.

This pic shows the line running from the bottom of the engine to the oil bottle. A very tight fit was encountered. Soapy water helped lubricate the line.

Here are two connections made at the oil bottle. The black line is an overflow line. The angled fitting at the top of the bottle runs to the bottom of the engine.

Next pic shows the line running from the oil bottle to the oil cooler. If I recall, the straight bottle fitting at this location has a drop tube that expels oil to the cooler.

Next pic shows the line running from the oil cooler to the oil pump on the front of the engine.

Here is a closeup of the 90 degree fitting fastened to the oil pump.

Originally, just a threaded plug was located on the bottom of the oil bottle for oil changes. I decided to install a quick drain valve at this location for ease of oil changes. I zip tied the cabin heat hose away from the valve. Not shown safety wiring to the engine mount.

Carb Heat Install

2010-08-14T22:17:00.007-04:00

Beginning with the control cable installation, cable is threaded through two cable housings (conduit). The ends of the cable housings are wired to cable ferrules which bolt to the firewall (shown) and carb heat valves.

The two throttle cables daylight through the firewall and attach to a mixer plate. A control cable and knob ties to the other end of the mixer plate. The cylindrical aluminum piece with side screw is a control cable friction adjustment.

Here is the carb heat diverter valve unit. The spring keeps the valve in the "normal" position, drawing ambient air in through the air filter intake. To actuate the carb heat, you pull the knob and the valve switches to allowing warmed air from the muffler.

Next pic shows one of the heat exchangers bolted to each end of the muffler. The OD of the exchanger is larger than the OD of the muffler which allows air to be drawn in and warmed as it moves up the hose to the carb heat diverter valve.

Following pics show construction of the diverter valves.

Last pic shows entire view of the air intake system mounted to the carb.

Cabin Heat Install

2010-08-08T08:11:00.006-04:00

The air intake for the cabin heat is shown at the front of the engine. The heater hose runs from there over the engine and down to the muffler wrap flange (heat exchanger) fitting.

Here is a view of the cabin heat air diverter valve, heater hose attached to the fire wall, and control cable fastened with two hose clamps to the forward lower horizontal engine mount member. Trying to thread a bolt throught two spring clamps in a confined space by myself took me hours to fasten.
Here is a closeup of the air diverter valve and control cable installed to the muffler wrap. The down position expells the heated air down and pulling the knob out on the instrument panel directs heat up and into the cabin.

This pic shows the cable routing from the firewall.

Here is the control cable push-pull knob assembly, attached to the instrument panel.

Cooling System Install

2010-07-31T19:30:00.007-04:00

The cooling system was final installed today. Here is the radiator.

The radiator is attached to the firewall at two locations and from the front with a rod which is clamped to the engine mount.

The radiator hose runs from the expansion tank, down into the left side of the radiator. You can also see 5" of hose slit and zipped tied to the main hose for anti-chafe protection from the engine mount. An 8" spring was inserted into the ID of the hose to prevent the hose from pinching at a severe bend.

Here is the hose coming in to the left side of the radiator.

The second hose runs from the water pump down into the right side of the radiator. Again, a spring was inserted and extra hose was used for anti-chafe.

Here is a view looking up from the belly.

Not shown is a 24" piece of 1/2" poly tubing running from the expansion bottle to the overflow bottle mounted on the firewall.

Lubrication System: Oil Cooler Install

2010-07-31T18:58:00.006-04:00

The oil cooler is mounted to the front of the engine. Here is a front view of the mounted cooler.

From behind, you can see it mounted to the engine in two of the three locations. The cooler is mounted between two aluminum channels/layers of silicone and sandwiched by four threaded rods. The silicone will dampen vibration.

You can see a gap between the cooler and vertical side of the channel. There could be concern that this will shift and rub metal on metal. Liquid silicone was suggested, but I don't want to risk plugging the cooling area. I will monitor through course of operation, as it eems like it is in there tight.

My kit is missing some oil lines (manual says to be provided by Rotax) so will contact factory to obtain entire updated lines sheathed with fire resistant material.

Install Exhaust System

2010-07-25T08:26:00.006-04:00

The exhaust system is installed and complete. Below pic shows all of the components. One half of the heater wrap, shown below, has flange fittings riveted and siliconed to two hole openings.

Here is a closeup of the flange fittings. Heater hoses will later attach here. The aluminum wrap around the muffler functions as a heat exchanger and warms the supplied air and returns it to the cabin.

Here is the heater wrap being installed around the muffler. Spacers are used to optimize fit.

The exhaust pipes were loosely attached to the engine and the muffler was attached to the pipes through a series of springs. My dad assisted while I stretched the springs with a device (handle with small hook) I had saved from stretching springs on my kids' trampoline. Worked slick. Once everything aligned and in position, I torqued down the nuts on the studs connected to the engine.

Instrument Panel: Final Fit-Up

2010-07-06T13:42:00.011-04:00

The instrument panel is complete, save for the four push-pull knob and cables (carb heat, choke, cabin heat, parking brake). Here is the panel I cut from blank stock and had powder-coated locally for $15.
I installed all of the instruments into the panel.

Here is the back-side of the panel and the variety of depths encountered with each instrument.

The structural tubes were a big hindrance in the panel design. Turns out my Hobbs gauge and several of my switch-breakers contacted the tubes and required some improvising.

Here is the completed panel ready to be screwed to the boot cowl, once it is painted and ready for installation.

I'm really pleased with how it turned out, in spite of, the limited panel space and underlying barriers. Combination switch/breakers were a huge space-saving factor. Next thing will be to install labels for each switch/breaker and fuse.

Engine Mod. (cont.) & Installation

2010-07-04T09:28:00.007-04:00

After quite a few weeks, I've finally got the engine installed. Here is the forward engine mount bolt connection to the block. Both bolts on both sides received loctite and safety wire.

Here is the right side bolts and safety wire, plus the mounted ignition module bracket.

The ignition module was previously mounted to the right intake manifold. Since the latter was moved to the left side, the corner had to be resupported. Here is the z-channel bracket installed on the forward engine mount and the above item supported. Ground wires were run to this fastener and an additional ground wire will run to the engine block, for an optimum ground connection.

After switching out carbs and manifolds, a longer compensating tube was required. Here is the new one installed, with rubber hose leading to a freshly "loctited" elbow in the intake manifold.

Here is the aft engine mount secured to the forward engine mount. Rubber donuts are installed at each fastened location to dampen vibration.

Here is me wrestling the aft engine mount to be bolted to the airframe. The engine hoist is a must-have.

Here is the final installed engine. Still need to hookup fuel lines to the carbs.

Airstrip Emerging Turf

2010-06-30T12:04:00.006-04:00

I applied 125 lbs of the following "pasture seed mix" to the runway surface:

*Climax Timothy-25.0%

*Orchard grass-9.6%

*Tetraploid Perennial Ryegrass-34.1%

*Norcen Trefoil-4.4%

*Alsike Clover-14.7%

*Medium Red Clover-11.0%

The runway was then fertilized and disked. Here is recent pic of runway 2.5 weeks later, following a considerable amount of rain.

Engine Modification

2010-06-28T08:15:00.013-04:00

The Rotax engine needed to be modified, mostly, so that the forward engine mount would adapt to the engine. This entailed swapping out left and right hand intake manifolds and carbs and turning coolant system elbows to gain clearance (among a host of other things). Below is an engine hoist I borrowed to assist in working on the engine and will ease installing it on the airframe. Rans manuals are weak in Rotax mod procedure, fortunately Rotax schematics are strong with good information (variety of loctite required for each fastener, required torque, etc.). Good advice from a fellow builder forewarned cost in damaging Rotax fasteners, hose, etc. as it is sold by the angstrom. So far so good. Specialized loctite alone priced at liquid gold.

Next several pics show removed carbs and fuel lines.

Here is relocated intake manifold (right to left).

Here is a drip tray supplied by Rans and installed on each manifold.

Following two pics show relocated carbs on drip trays. A new throttle bracket was installed and throttle spring was redirected.

This next one shows the dismantled water pump with housing removed.

Here is the housing (inlet removed and not shown). I had to heat up the upper elbows with a heat gun to soften loctite and faciliate removal.

Here is the forward engine mount trial fit before rerouting elbows and coolant hoses. Close tolerance fit would be an understatement.

Here is final assembled water pump housing, rotated and loctited inlet/outlet elbows and hosing rerouted through engine mount and clamped to elbows. What a PITA. Rotate pic 90 deg. CCW. Wife keeps asking "what's all the yelling from the garage"?

Here is electrical assembly I installed (pressure switch?). It is used to operate engine hour meter, so when engine quits, the hour meter quits.

Twin boys-for scale....
I've got the 2 of the 4 engine mount bolts torqued and loctited. Alignment is way off on bottom two and will require my Dad's assistance to align. Pray can have dang thing mounted by weekend.

Airstrip Construction Completion

2010-06-21T10:39:00.003-04:00

The airstrip is finally constructed. First pic shows my Dad dragging a "disc" to drive the seed and fertilizer further into the soil, which was simply broadcast over the dirt. The four-wheeler helped immensely in seeding/fertilizing. I sat off the front performing while my dad drove. All we need is rain now. The seed was a pasture mix. I also threw in oats for quick cover to protect the loose soil until the grass seed comes up.

Here is the as-built runway looking south. Only one set of culverts were needed, as drainage ditching will convey majority of runoff around both ends of the runway.

and from mid-field...

Have a lot of rocks to contend with plus some ruts. I will let the soil "setup" for one year and then return with my dad's loader and mini-excavator to extract good fill and fill-in ruts. Probably stuck with having to pick rocks by hand. This Fall I will burn existing pulled stumps and remove remaining ones next year.

Airstrip Construction

2010-06-11T16:34:00.011-04:00

Beginning this past March, I had a 200' x 1,380' area cleared for an airstrip. Here is the before picture.

Here are pics following the clearcut. I had the logger stockpile all of the tops on the left side for fuel for the stumps to be pulled later. I will burn them later this Fall. Proceeds from the timber sale will pay for all of the dirtwork.

This past week my excavating contractor began grubbing the stumps and placing them on the tops. The grubbed width is 75' and conforms to the runway surface.

Here's a typical grade stake I placed for the contractor, so he can construct the grade I designed.

Final grading began on the far south end.

Runway surface is final trimmed with a dozer. Note the crowned surface and side ditch on west side. I was very pleased that the material turned out to be a sandy loam with significant clay content. This will help in moisture retention and likewise in growing grass. A few rocks were encountered but no bedrock yet.

Here is the middle portion of the site where a major "cut" was.

Here is view looking north from completed end of runway.

Runway is roughly halfway done. Need to grade north half and install culvert. Will then seed and fertilize.

Instrument Panel: Fit-Up

2010-05-28T19:45:00.013-04:00

It's amazing how much cumulative time I've spent on this instrument panel over the last couple years. It first began conceptually with which instruments to outfit the plane with and then entailed laying out the configuration, which I repeatedly changed using a panel design software program. More recently, I cut out scaled cardboard cutouts and placed them on the panel. I would sit in the front seat and pretend I was manipulating them in flight and, likewise, move things around until everything felt and looked right.

Next, I accumulated everything that I would mount on the panel and take measurements and check for clearance behind the panel with other instruments and just as important with the structure.
After laying out the linework, for rectangular openings I would drill holes in each corner and scribe inner lines where I would cut the metal with dremel cut-off wheels. Here is stepwise procedure I used for the turn coordinator.

Next, I would file the opening to the final cut-out lines.

For the smaller holes, I would drill out with a step drill bit. For the larger holes, I used a drill bit with an adjustable hole cutting assembly (not shown).

Here is the completed panel, with all cut-outs complete. I should note that I had constructed a mock up demo panel with my first piece of aluminum.

Reagan continues to want to jump into the cockpit and pretend to be pilot-in-command.

Next, I will drill all of the mount holes for the instruments and then take to Baraga for gray powder coating. Called today for a quote and was told only 10 bucks!

Fuel Lines Install: Fuselage

2010-05-14T18:40:00.005-04:00

I installed the fuel lines and fittings in the cockpit area. Starting from the station 3 (aft end of wings) area are the aluminum risers to be tied to fuel tanks in the wings later.

Here are the two aluminum lines from each aft wing manifolding together at the mixing block. The combined flow from both lines runs through the line on the bottom.

Moving forward, here is the aluminum fuel line clamped to the left foot rest board. Note the loom material for anti-chafe at frame wear points.

Here is the aluminum line connecting to a cross fitting and two additional aluminum vertical lines running in from the forward side of the wings.

Here are the vertical lines stubbed off until wings go on. Apparently, must have redundant drain lines coming from fore and aft locations of fuel tanks in case a line plugs.

Here is the cross fitting and the rubber hose line running to a fuel on/off valve and then forward to the firewall.

Finally, here is the terminal end of the fuel line adapting to the firewall fitting. Upon hanging the engine, I will continue from here.

Seat/Shoulder Belt Restraints

2010-05-14T18:37:00.002-04:00

I put the seat belts in early so I could get a feel for how they would affect me in trying to manipulate controls on the instrument panel.

Boot Cowl Fit-up Continued: Install fabric

2010-04-23T22:56:00.004-04:00

I installed Sunbrella material to the inside of the boot cowl to match the firewall interior. I really like the appearance of the fabric much more than simply painting the fiberglass. I then burned holes through existing hole locations and riveted bottom angle supports and fasteners which will hold the front cowling.

Fill and Bleed Brake System

2010-04-23T22:44:00.007-04:00

I used an oil pump bottle with attached hose to fill brake lines from bleed valves on the wheels. Worked slick. Filling from the bottom point resulted in very few bubbles. Got on the brakes and, with my Dad's help bleeding the valves, was able to eliminate the mush and get the brake pedals solid. Tried the brakes out in the garage and they work great. I was pumped (no pun intended) that there were no detected leaks in any of the fittings.

Install Throttle Lever Assembly

2010-04-23T22:20:00.004-04:00

Installed throttle assembly. Push-pull tube connects fore and aft levers for redundant control.

Install Brake Lines & Cylinders

2010-04-17T21:06:00.010-04:00

After installing the rudder pedals, I installed the brake master cylinders and lines. I had hoped to fill the system, but found I need to use a special kind of aviation brake fluid which won't eat the seals. I have it on order and hope to complete next week.

Install Seats

2010-04-17T20:02:00.009-04:00

I decided to install the seats so that I could climb in see how things felt. It was hard to determine if the rudder pedals were friction-free enough by using just my hands. After climbing in, my feet confirmed that they feel pretty good.

My Harbor Freight pneumatic riveter crapped out, so had to use a hand puller on stainless steel 3/16" rivets. Only way I could do it was use channel locks to squeeze the gun to generate enough leverage.
Zip ties were used to tension the underside of the seat fabric.

It took a solid day to get this done.

Floorboards & Rudder Pedals: Final Install

2010-04-11T19:32:00.006-04:00

Since I'm awaiting Sunbrella fabric material to line the interior of the boot cowl, I decided to final install the rudder pedals and floor boards. The rudder and brake controls are actuated redundantly through push-pull tubes between fore and aft pedals.

Reagan (18 mo) gives the forward control stick a tug.

Boot Cowl Fit-up

2010-04-04T07:43:00.004-04:00

Beginning the fitup of the fiber glass boot cowl. I used a dremel with cutting bits to cut areas around the edge where needed to clear fasteners, gear legs, etc. Pre-etched lines from the manufacturer helped tremendously in getting close with the cuts. Take caution in removing cowl during test fits, as will rub paint off fuse. I wish I had duct taped wear areas initially.

Firewall Final Install

2010-03-26T08:02:00.003-04:00

Production has suffered lately, as have been out of town alot. The firewall is complete. I spray glued Sunbrella awning fabric to the inside of the firewall and burned holes through with a hot knife. I then installed all of the parts shown. Next I will fitup the boot cowling.

Fuselage Final Install: Flap Handle Control

2010-02-20T08:38:00.004-05:00

Here are a couple pics of the flap handle installation...

In the last pic, you can see clearance problem with the armature. Will solve by using extra washers to shim up assembly.

Fuselage Final Install: Aileron Cable Control System

2010-02-15T19:44:00.004-05:00

Installed a portion of the aileron control system before the wings go on, consisting of four pulleys and short runs of cable and turnbuckles tied to the torque tube.

Fuselage Final Install: Elevator Control System

2010-02-13T07:58:00.007-05:00

The elevator control system is complete. The setup runs from the control sticks all the way to the tail of the plane where the elevator attaches. Reminds me of driveline for a vehicle transmission. Next couple pics show the entire length, first one shows view looking forward from battery compartment.

Here is view looking aft from battery compartment.

This is a universal type joint right behind the torque tube. The purpose of this connection is to allow the torque tube to rotate independently of the push-pull tubes. The joint also enables the series of push pull tubes to function with a change in vertical alignment.

Here is another transition connection where the push pull tubes are attached and can move back and forth at a vertical alignment change.

Here is the end of the system where the elevator will ultimately attach.

With some 3-in-1 oil applied to all of the bushings and adjustments of nuts here and there, I've got most of the friction out and control sticks feel pretty good left, right (torque tube-ailerons), front, and back (push-pull tube transmission-elevator).

Fuselage Final Install: Control Stick Assembly

2010-02-07T20:08:00.011-05:00

I final-installed the torque tube, elevator push-pull tube and control sticks. The torque tube is mounted on three pillow blocks, which are bolted to the frame. It takes a little effort to get the friction out and I had to shim the front and middle pillow blocks to get things to work. They're basically like glorified clamps which have to be loosened and lubricated to function without friction. Two aluminum stop rings are riveted to prevent torque tube from moving forward and aft. Here is the front pillow block:

Here is the middle pillow block. The bearing area was masked so paint would not contaminate.

Here is the aft pillow block. There are two black plastic bushings installed inside the torque tube that the push-pull tube goes through. The forward bushing was a son-of-a-gun to install, as the ID of the tube was out of round due to welding distortion. Took alot of sanding to get bushing to fit and was reminiscent of gear leg fitup--a fair amount of cursing aimed at the manufacturer.

Here is one of the two control sticks bolted through a series of bushings.

The front control stick will be wired with three switches, including: push-to-talk, radio frequency toggle, and elevator trim up and down. Here is me wiring up the switches. First time I have attempted any degree of soldering and was a little nerous. After a few practice runs, I got the hang of it. Key is to heat up wire and tabs with the gun and apply solder there and not directly to the gun. Looking for a glassy and not frosty looking bead.

Attached to the rear stick are two linkages which transfer elevator push pull tube actuation to the front and rear sticks.

In this pic, you can see the seven wires existing the base of the control stick.

The overall goal was to obtain a friction-free setup. I retained enough friction, however, that the control sticks won't flop over in any direction without pilot input.

Painting: Misc. Steel Parts

2010-01-30T08:19:00.007-05:00

I painted up all of the primarily mild steel parts, which included: the control stick assembly, door/seat hardware, rudder pedals, jury struts, aileron spades, etc. Wanted to get this all done at once, so did not need to do piece-meal later. I used an automotive gray epoxy primer and matched a urethane topcoat to my gray exterior stripe. I ended up taking the door into an automotive part store where they scanned the gray stripe (with what looks like a bar code reader) and then a computer spit out the ingredients to match. He put the quart can on a scale, added the ingredients and then on a mechanical shaker. Perfect match; pretty cool and whole lot cheaper then aviation paint.

Here are bare metal pics, removed rust with Brillo pad and cleaned with lacquer thinner.

Here are pics of epoxy primed parts,

Here are pics of topcoated parts,

Painting: Doors

2010-01-23T08:08:00.006-05:00

The covering and painting of all covered items is now complete with completion of the doors. I carried the red/white two tone color and gray stripe forward onto the doors. Had a few bleed through runs, but overall not too bad. Will dress these up when project done. The paint booth functioned well in keeping overspray out of the shop.

First couple pics show masking for gray stripe and then application of gray stripe.

Here are completed doors, hinged with "golf tees" for the time being.

New Paint Booth

2010-01-09T21:46:00.004-05:00

I actually did what I should have done from the beginning: build a framed paint booth. Since the wings and fuse are done, decided to build a small 8x10 booth to paintup odds and ends through the rest of the project. Has high flow inlet air filter and high cfm exhaust fan. Should keep the overspray out and off of the rest of my shop.

Painting: Fuselage

2010-01-07T09:56:00.011-05:00

The painting is finally starting to reach it's end. The fuselage is complete. First pics show primer coats being applied, sanded and washed.

The baggage compartment and BRS mount and bridles were masked for protection. No paint required beyond the sheeting shown, as there is a plastic trim piece that will conceal a good percentage of the opening perimeter.

Following pic shows the completely primed and sanded fuse ready for topcoat. First pic shows fine line tape applied, the top of which, marks the division between white and red topcoats. First topcoat to go on is red.

Next pic shows masking paper applied to fine line tape.

I then sheeted the remaining fuse with plastic. Now ready to spray.

Here is application of Matador Red topcoat.

Next, I masked and sheeted all of the newly painted red areas and then sprayed the entire fuse (including cockpit) insignia white (not shown until end).

Now, after the fuselage has been painted either red or white, I then masked off the area for the gray stripe. The gray stripe is painted over the white topcoat 1/2" below the red. This will leave a desired white stripe between the main gray stripe and overlying red. I used 1/2" fine line tape to effect this.

Here is how she looks after pulling it off the stand and getting it back on the gear. Overall, I'm pleased with the results. Had a few areas where "bleed-through" occurred under the fine line tape, such as where the tape was placed over the pinked serrated edge of the dacron covering tape or where the tape was mitered together at turns in the stripe. Also, had a few areas where runs occurred, which were sanded down, but are still evident under proper angle and lighting. I've resolved not to let myself get bogged down with perfection and adhere to the "10 foot rule". Note: the hole on the tail is where I cut my first opening in an inspection ring. A painted metal cover will conceal this. I had to open here in order to get wrench on the bolt that holds the tail spring. Must say it was decidedly tough to put a razor blade through the finished painted skin.

Now on to the doors which will be tricky as have to carry the split red/white and gray stripe forward in perfect alignment to that shown above.

Avionics Panel Redesign

2009-12-18T20:35:00.010-05:00

Well it turns out Dynon has begun shipping their new everything-in-one flight information/engine monitoring units, coined the "Skyview". Cost is slightly more than their Flightdek 180 unit, which is similar but no synthetic vision or plan view imaging of terrain. I think a great value. I spent an evening on the Vans web forum where the debates were flying on the product (between dynon rep. and other competitors); hands-down I'm convinced. I'm still awestruck by this technology even though I understand now how it works. It comes with a 3d terrain map database loaded and, using a gps input signal, can place your position continuously relative to the terrain model. I will use my Garmin 496 for gps input signal. Bummer that I already installed remote compass and OAT for the other unit considered, which is not compatible.

Here is my latest simulated panel plan:

Paint Scheme Design: Yet another one...

2009-12-02T15:45:00.004-05:00

Here's one I'm pondering that I pulled (and tweaked with zigzag) from American Champion site. I was thinking with some good plastic fine line tape I could mask the white topcoat below and create the two white stripes, then should be able to blast the two red stripes all at once. Hmmm.... I also like how red stripes stop shy of the spinner... And here's yet another variation of an earlier scheme. I kind of like the white stripe between the gray stripe and the gray stripe set back at the front. Getting down to crunch time now, as begin priming fuse tomorrow. I think it's looking like this one....

Painting: Left Wing

2009-11-28T08:46:00.008-05:00

The wings are now complete and painted. Following are pics of finished product for left wing. I discovered during this phase that a handheld vibratory sander works great for sanding primed coats. I found can manage appearance of orange peel by reducing paint 25% on first pass, and then 40% on second pass of cross coat. Biggest challenge now is avoiding runs.

Paint Scheme Design: Revised Again

2009-11-25T08:36:00.007-05:00

I'm back to considering a variation of my original design. I wanted to maintain symmetry around the spinner profile centerline: this is accompolished with the white middle stripe up front. I also wanted the split color scheme to merge at the aft corner of the fuselage, which is done here. This design also eliminates a zigzag stripe, which adds more complexity; everything is linear here. Finally, I wanted to keep the top of the door exterior white so there was not an awkward color transition to the white interior at the top of the door.

I'm hoping to just paint the plastic tip bow covers red, so don't have to fool with painting wing or ailerons red and likewise making sure the stripes match up.

Grass Airstrip Design

2009-11-23T16:14:00.011-05:00

I've decided to move forward and design an airfield for the plane someday. It's located on a 40 acre parcel I own, which is entirely wooded. I will have a 200' wide swath logged and the proceeds will go towards development of a 1,400' by 75' wide landing strip. The 75' width will be completely grubbed and regraded. Topsoil will be stripped, stockpiled and then replaced. Seeding, fertilizing and mulching will then follow.

Following is my initial shot at a regrading/drainage plan, based off a site topo survey I performed. Proposed ground in pink, contour interval=1'. Stationing=50'. Several PVC culverts will be constructed under the strip.
Next figure shows a profile of the finished grade centerline, extending at -0.3 and -1.6%, respectively.
Next figure shows some of the cross sections. In general, the runway will be crowned to drain at 1.5% in each direction and then side-slopes will be constructed at 3:1. The site was designed to balance cut/fills with a net quantity moved of 2,800 CY.

Revised Paint Scheme

2009-11-12T14:38:00.016-05:00

After much long and hard deliberation, I have finally settled on a paint scheme that looks good yet limits complexity. However, still not sure on stripe color...black is quickly fading from contention...gray seems to speak to me most, but what shade?

Painting: Right Wing

2009-11-02T07:47:00.012-05:00

Here's the masked off root rib with cardboard to fit. Used rib jig to trace it.

One of many sanding sessions, been using 320 grit wet for primer and 400 grit wet for topcoat...

I had overall better luck avoiding orange peel on final topcoat this time, by reducing mixture 40-50%. I also made sure to visibily flow the paint on. The down side, due to the thinner mixture, I had lots of runs occuring on the near vertical areas, such as LE/TE spars when the wing was laid horizontal. I quickly cleaned them up with a clean wet sponge, with only minimal negative effect. Forget about spraying wings vertical on the stand, as runs occured galore. So had to spray horizontal, which of course set up more horizontal area for crap to rain down on during curing process. I still much prefer final product: nice smooth wet finish. Think I've got a method now to get reproducible results. On to the left wing....

Painting: Horiz Stabilizors, Elevators, Rudder

2009-10-17T19:00:00.014-04:00

I finished spraying the tail feathers. First pic shows them being positioned horizontally on saw horses.

Next pic shows what first coat of primer looks like on one side.

Here is pic after first top coat.

Here is pic following second top coat. I hung all the pieces at this point, thinking I could shoot everything at once and minimize contamination on coat. This worked well, but I neglected to consider air pressure of spray on pieces which resulted in them becoming moving targets during spraying. Ended up with orange peel on all of them, but in the interest of time, I decided to press on. Thankfully, I'm done dealing with saw horses and hanging stuff on wires as now on to the big stuff mounted on the rotisserie stand. Will have much more control now.

I have the recurring problem of orange peel developing only on the second pass of each top coat. Never the first one. I currently suspect maybe I'm applying first pass on to heavy. Hope to resolve during shooting of wings, which are next.